Surfing is more than a sport; it’s a way of life, the manner in which you interact with your surroundings, an adventure, a game. When you begin to surf, it’s important to start close to the beach where the waves are breaking so that you learn to take off well. Only when you feel prepared will be the moment you go for the crest of the wave to catch it before it breaks.
But how do you catch those waves? We’ll tell you how to become a true surfer in just 5 steps.
1. Read the waves correctly
That’s easier said than done, we know. It takes time to learn to read the sea and know where to position yourself to catch the best waves. A word of advice: don’t go for the first wave set. Wait until you find a wave that’s appropriate for your level. That’ll be one way you don’t swallow water unnecessarily.
2. Position yourself
Surfing is not like football or basketball where you play and find yourself in the same court, with well-painted areas and the centre of the field clearly marked. Surfing conditions change with each season, each day, even with each wave. You need to be in the right place at the precise moment.
3. Paddling out
The wave is approaching; you can see it coming, so start paddling. But really paddle. Lower your chest and concentrate all your energy in your arms. It’s about being in contact with nature, understanding and respecting the oceans and above all, sharing the fun of sliding over the waves.
4. Get up
Once you feel you are in the wave and that your surfboard is titling forward slightly, that’s when you get on your feet. Once you are standing up… simply enjoy the ride. If you find yourself losing balance, stay crouched on your surfboard to balance better.
5. Patience
Surfing is tough. If you caught your first wave at the first go: congratulations! The more you get into the water, the more the opportunities you will have to improve. And remember: the best surfer is not the best rider but the one who has the most fun.
